South Korean researchers have identified N-carbamylglutamate (NCG), a molecule already used to support gut and reproductive health, as a potential multi-functional ingredient for skin care, demonstrating antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, anti-wrinkle, and brightening properties that may help combat skin ageing.
In laboratory experiments, NCG protected various skin cell types from UV-induced damage, which typically leads to oxidative stress, collagen breakdown, inflammation, and excess melanin production. The research suggests NCG could target “inflammageing,” the low-grade chronic inflammation that accelerates skin ageing.
Researchers from Chonnam National University, Dongshin University, and BIO-FD&C tested NCG on four types of cells commonly used in cosmetic research: human keratinocytes (surface skin cells), human dermal fibroblasts (collagen-producing cells in deeper skin layers), mouse melanoma cells (used to study pigmentation), and mouse macrophages (immune cells involved in inflammation). Cells were exposed to UVB light, bacterial toxins, or pigment-stimulating hormones to mimic real-world skin stress before treatment with NCG.
Strong Antioxidant and Anti-Wrinkle Effects
In UVB-damaged keratinocytes, NCG reduced reactive oxygen species (ROS) by over 90%, performing similarly to much higher doses of the well-known antioxidant N-acetylcysteine (NAC). In fibroblasts, NCG restored type I procollagen production by up to 30% and inhibited collagen-degrading enzymes MMP-1 and MMP-3 by more than 53%, indicating potential anti-wrinkle benefits.
Brightening Effects on Par with Arbutin
NCG also demonstrated skin-brightening potential. In pigment-producing melanoma cells, it reduced melanin levels and tyrosinase activity by approximately 18%, with effects comparable to arbutin, a popular cosmetic brightening agent. The molecule downregulated the pigment-related protein MITF and its supporting enzymes TRP-1 and TRP-2 by more than 50%, suggesting it can target pigmentation at multiple stages.
Anti-Inflammatory Action Targets Root of Ageing
The study highlighted NCG’s anti-inflammatory effects in immune cells, where it lowered nitric oxide production by up to 47.5% and reduced levels of inflammatory proteins iNOS, COX-2, TNF-α, and IL-6. By calming chronic inflammation, NCG may help prevent collagen loss and uneven pigmentation associated with ageing skin.
Future Directions
While NCG shows promising lab results as a multi-functional cosmetic ingredient, researchers emphasize that human trials are needed to confirm its effectiveness. Key questions remain, including whether NCG can penetrate human skin, optimal dosages for topical use, potential for irritation or allergic reactions, and how to incorporate it into different product formulations.
The team concluded: “NCG demonstrates significant potential as a safe and multifunctional active compound for cosmetic and dermatological products. However, in vivo validation and clinical assessments are essential before it can be applied in commercial formulations.”
