Researchers at UCLA have developed a new mineral sunscreen that addresses one of the most common complaints about traditional formulas: the white, chalky residue often left on the skin. This new sunscreen uses a novel form of zinc oxide shaped like microscopic four-armed structures called tetrapods, which significantly reduces the white cast and makes it more wearable, especially for people with darker skin tones.
Mineral sunscreens are recommended by dermatologists for daily use due to their effectiveness in protecting against harmful UV radiation, a leading cause of skin cancer in the United States. However, many individuals avoid using these products because of the visible white or gray residue left behind by conventional zinc oxide particles, an issue that can be particularly noticeable and concerning for those with deeper skin tones.
According to the UCLA research team, the breakthrough lies not in a new ingredient, but in changing the shape of the zinc oxide particles. Traditional sunscreens use round nanoparticles of zinc oxide, which tend to clump together and scatter visible light, causing the unwanted white cast. By contrast, the tetrapod-shaped zinc oxide particles form porous networks and stay evenly spread throughout the sunscreen, preventing clumping and reducing chalkiness.
Laboratory tests showed that lotions formulated with the new particles performed as well as those with standard zinc oxide, reaching an SPF of about 30. The new formula also remained stable over time without separating or thickening. Most importantly, when tested on various skin types, the sunscreen left a finish much closer to natural skin tones and did not require additional pigments or coatings to mask the white cast, making it more visually appealing and comfortable for daily use.
The study’s lead author AJ Addae, a doctoral candidate at UCLA, noted a personal connection to the research, explaining that frustration with the appearance of traditional mineral sunscreens inspired the search for a solution. Senior author Paul S. Weiss emphasized that making sunscreen more visually acceptable could encourage more consistent use, ultimately supporting skin cancer prevention efforts.
Though this technology is not yet available on the market, the research team is working with UCLA Health’s department of dermatology and the Skin of Color Clinic to further evaluate the product’s safety, effectiveness, and impact on the skin’s microbiome. The researchers hope that their findings will make sun protection options more inclusive and accessible, helping more people protect themselves from the sun’s harmful rays regardless of their skin tone.
